New Generation NZFW 2015

One of the best things about any fashion week is welcoming new talent and fresh designers to the runway. It’s always interesting to see how they approach their collections and then watch how they progress over time in future fashion weeks. Most of the biggest names in the industry started in some kind of New Generation show and many of the mainstays on the current schedule got their start in this particular show.

First up was Slaeve who presented a welcome menswear collection, as it’s predominantly women’s fashion that graces the runway this week. Opening with a matching denim top and trousers featuring raw edging, the looks then progressed into an interesting variation on streetwear with skirts for men, (yes, you read that right) in stretchy midi-length jersey making an appearance on the runway. This play on androgynous clothing felt very international and was made more subversive with model’s mouths covered in Slaeve’s branding.  Although the majority of the looks were contemporary casuals with an emphasis on relaxed silhouettes and neutral tones which made for a confident debut.

Next up was Third Form, a young Australian label choosing to make their runway debut in New Zealand which is a unique decision. They sent a collection of modern womenswear in sleek silhouettes accented with clever details such as mesh inserts and sexy cut-outs down the runway. Flared trousers, fitted dresses and structured coats made for a look that was elegant and minimalistic. Texture was everywhere, with soft crumples contrasting with silk, and leather juxtaposing with sheer mesh for a neoteric effect. Although the colour palette was mostly neutrals, a bolt of colour came in the form of an alluring tangerine dress and helped make for a self-assured presentation from Third Form.

Last down the runway was Jordan Holliday’s collection which interestingly also toyed with androgyny, as he presented a series of mostly men’s clothing that had a relaxed feel but a subversive edge. The looks were free-flowing and over-sized with the sleeves of a statement knit practically reaching the floor. A fur kimono, super high-waisted pants and more skirts for men added the high-fashion element to the range while the women wore raw-edged sheer tops and midi-length skirts in loose silhouettes. As much as the dress looks for men may be a new idea for the average kiwi male, there were definitely some great styles that would be good to see adapted into more men’s wardrobes in future, and will no doubt mean we see more of Jordan Holliday in the future too.

By Evelyn Ebrey
Images: Yvonne Shearer Photography

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