They are our most intimate garments, and as such, they deserve attention. As these leading lingerie designers show, now is the time to talk about our unmentionables.
By Jessica-Belle Greer
Those in the Northern Hemisphere may like to refer to New Zealand and Australia as ‘Down Under’ – but this cheeky nickname belies where it belittles.
It has long been my assertion that our local labels are overachievers in the international fashion scene. The New Zealand undergarment industry, in particular, seems well above average in creating lingerie for women today. The founders below are leaders in developing underwear that is pretty, practical and puts the wearer first. Here’s how they do it.
Founder of Videris, Chloé Julian
Although underwear is by definition one of the least visible items of apparel, that does not diminish its importance to look good as a fashion item as well as to offer both comfort and support. At Videris, we believe comfort and support shouldn’t come at the expense of wellbeing. Our lingerie is expertly designed to eliminate uncomfortable underwires, using luxurious, sustainable fabrics free of harmful chemicals.
Prior to launching Videris, I spent 16 years designing lingerie internationally, for Stella McCartney Lingerie, Agent Provocateur, and David Beckham Bodywear. In 2017, I led the design team as Vice President of Design to launch Rihanna’s lingerie line, Savage X Fenty. I have designed many bras, 95% of which have a wire, as this style has dominated the market since it was first patented in the 1890s.
Every woman is different, each breast is different (even between a pair!) and they change throughout our cycle. Wearing a non-wired bra, which offers comfort, support and flexibility in fit whilst celebrating our natural shape, is the best thing for us.
Making lingerie in a sustainable material isn’t easy. Most of the materials used in lingerie are polyester, this includes all laces, meshes, tulles, and embroideries. The synthetic nature of these materials means they have great durability, which is a great attribute for a hard-working garment like a bra or a wash per wear item like a knicker. However, the amount of chemicals used in the production of these materials is quite frightening. Unlike beauty or food products, clothing labels are not required to list anything except fabric composition, meaning synthetic fabrics often contain forever chemicals. Since underwear is worn against the most private parts of your body, the absence of toxic chemicals in our lingerie was taken very seriously when developing Videris and has informed the fabric we use and the certifications we have.
I am really proud to be a brand for women, that celebrates and recognises the uniqueness of all women. Videris exists to shift the traditional lingerie paradigm from being about how women look in their lingerie to asking ‘how do you feel?’
Our lingerie is the first thing we put on our bodies in the morning, so it is important to know that these items are good for you. There has been a growing focus on breast health and a preference for breathable lingerie that provides all-day comfort. I hope that women will choose lingerie made in sustainable fabrics free from harmful chemicals.
Videris has become a space to educate and bring light to issues that are important to me and uplift other women, whether we are talking about cycle syncing, patriarchal language or how amazing and intuitive our bodies are.
Co-founders of Ohen, Lu Blade-Bittle and Anja Bucher
We both felt there was a gap in the market for a high-end lingerie label that prioritised both design and performance. Women often worry that an underwire bra will be uncomfortable, but we developed a custom flexi underwire to give support and shape without the discomfort wire can sometimes bring. We also didn’t want to compromise on the aesthetics, so having a design-led approach was so key to the brand and collection. (Blade-Bittle)
An underwire bra is a complex structure comprising 30-40 components (depending on the style), making it a technical garment to create. Our team has over 30 years of experience in lingerie, so we knew we could design a range that delivered support and shape with the beauty of lace and the comfort of modal. (Bucher)
Creativity is essential in developing unique, fashion-conscious designs that make wearers feel confident and beautiful. However, practicality ensures these designs are comfortable, functional, and made for every day. Combining innovative aesthetics with thoughtful construction and material choices has meant we have created pieces that are both delicate and supportive. (Bucher)
Our collection is currently stocked at Underlena, who have a beautiful offering of international brands, like KYE Intimates, The Great Eros, Dora Larsen and Cuccia, and the response to Ohen in this line-up has been really positive, which reinforces our belief that we can hold up internationally. The technical expertise of our team, combined with customer feedback to date, gives us the confidence to back ourselves as we expand into Australia and then later into the UK. (Blade-Bittle)
We want women to embrace lingerie, and lingerie shopping, as a form of self-care, rather than something they dread or just throw on in the morning. It’s the first thing you put on your body and the closest thing to your skin – it should be as beautiful as the body it’s on. (Blade-Bittle)
Founder of Rachel Mills, Rachel Mills
There are two major needs that we have now well and truly met.
#1 I had been searching for ethically made, everyday cotton underwear at an accessible price that I actually wanted to wear. And in terms of design, there were some big non-negotiables. They must not dig into the backside and create the awful ridge that happens when the outer edge has elastic around it, and they must also not irritate the bikini line.
#2 Our machinists needed work… Mid-way through Covid, I knew we needed to pivot our business quickly. We needed a product that would help us shift from a sole B2B (business to business) factory into a B2C (business to consumer) retailer.
Underwear is a difficult one to make locally, as consumers will often expect it at a low price point, or are used to paying for it at a low price point. It can be fiddly and detailed to make, so it was a real challenge to turn it into something that we could manufacture easily, to keep it within budget.
Our design is very much led by the manufacturing strategy. We worked hard on developing our shapes via the elimination of inefficient finishes, while focusing on a flattering and comfortable shape. We design for the everyday, so there are no bells and whistles in our pieces. For me the creativity satisfaction comes from the silhouettes that sit really beautifully, that hug the body in all the right places, often unexpectedly, in order to create pieces that our customers reach for day after day.
I think this is where ingenuity can really shine bright. In our little corner of the world, we are often made to work with less resources. Our machinery isn’t as advanced as other manufacturing centres, and we don’t have the same budgets behind us, so we are forced to think really creatively and to work in more of a problem-solving kind of way. I think that is really important when creating a product (and business) that will be around for years to come to make sure we are creating something that fulfils a need, and can bring some form of positive change to the world.