Designer Trish Peng.
Trish Peng’s incredible scarlet gown with its 22 metre tulle train effectively stole the show at New Zealand Wedding Magazine’s New Zealand Fashion Week show last month. The striking red gown, made with vintage Christian Dior lace flown in from France, and featuring hundreds of Swarovski crystals was the kind of fantasy gown that was impossible to look away from and caught the attention of everyone in the room, not to mention the many media that came calling afterwards. It’s the kind of moment that designers dream of, with everyone enraptured by one of their creations, and for Trish Peng it’s something that she will hopefully be enjoying more of after having moved from New Zealand to the bright lights and red carpets of Los Angeles earlier this year.
It’s a brave move for Peng but one she felt ready for, as since establishing her eponymous label in January 2012, she has done ready-to-wear, cocktail dresses and bridal gowns before settling on creating winsome custom-made evening and bridal gowns. “I’ve kind of done it all and you know what I’m only one person so I can’t do everything, I’d rather do one thing and do it well,” adds Peng. “I was selling 50 units of ready to wear for what I would get for one bridal gown so I was like ok, let’s just do bridal. My business in New Zealand is about 80% bridal and about 20% evening and cocktail gowns but in LA it’s about 50/50 because all the red carpet events puts them on par with bridal. Everyone also gets married at least once over there.”
The move has separated Peng from her atelier team in Auckland while she works from a temporary space in LA, as her new workroom and showroom is due to open stateside later in the year or early next year. She still comes back to New Zealand every 2-3 months to do consultations with brides-to-be here, although her recent bridal collection for the NZFW show was done with Peng sketching her ideas in LA and working with her team via the internet to get the gowns together. “It was the first time I had sketched something and then not seen it as I was in LA and my team made it here,” says Peng. “So it was like I virtually designed it via Skype and was like ‘Ok, let’s add this or do that.’ When I came back from LA I was so nervous because I was wondering ‘What does it actually look like in person?’ Because whatever it was like I was going to have to put it in the show.”
Trish Peng’s scarlet gown on the runway in the NZ Weddings Magazine show at NZFW 2016.
Fortunately for Peng, her instructions were interpreted perfectly by her team and the nine piece collection was a triumphant success on the runway. Unlike her previous bridal collections which were light on the embellishments and more about delicate lace and simple silhouettes, her new bridal collection reflects her change of scenery and of clients. “This collection is definitely more for the American bride,” concurs Peng. “I’ve noticed since I’ve been there that brides are always trying to top their friends as in who has the biggest dress or whose is most embellished or has more tulle. So this collection is kind of inspired by that since I’m now working in that market. They’ve got black tie weddings every weekend in LA and so you don’t want to blend in with your guest’s gowns.”
There was definitely nothing about Peng’s scarlet finale gown that would blend in and although she showed eight other sublime gowns it’s the red one that has gotten all the attention. When Peng and her team secured the finale spot in the show they knew it was the perfect chance to create something over the top that would leave a lasting impression on the crowd. Brainstorming about the last time Peng closed her debut NZFW show in 2014 with a bridal gown featuring a 6 metre train led to the suggestion of doing a much longer 20 metre tulle train, which ended up needing three male helpers to guide it around the U-shaped runway. The beautiful deep red hue was inspired by Peng’s Chinese heritage as Chinese weddings feature red dresses as a sign of prosperity and good luck. “A bit of East meets West,” adds Peng. The dramatic look took three rehearsals to negotiate the runway without incident and experienced model Ella Verberne did a brilliant job of taking it in her stride while looking positively regal gliding down the runway. The gown’s train was detachable like several others in the collection, so the bride can have the volume for walking down the aisle and a more practical look for the reception afterwards.
While Seven Sharp were first to follow up on the story of the scarlet gown not long after the show, the next morning the Daily Mail came calling and it wasn’t long before Peng’s gorgeous gown was making news around the world with amusing results. “It’s so funny how Chinese whispers start because our press release started with saying that it was the longest gown for fashion week,” says Peng. “Then the Daily Mail wrote that it was the longest gown ever on the catwalk and now it’s been written that it’s the longest gown ever in the world in a show, and I was like ‘What the?! Ok, I’ll take it.’ Someone else wrote that it was 40 metres long, and I’m like no, it was 22.”
Looks from Trish Peng’s latest bridal collection on the runway at NZFW 2016.
Although no doubt it’s not the length of the train but the beauty of Peng’s stunning gowns that will bring many more brides knocking on her door after her headline making show. Each of Peng’s gowns is made to measure for each client, with them either choosing to mix and match one of Peng’s existing creations or working with the designer to create a unique customised gown just for them. Although many clients have ideas about what they want, some are indecisive and it’s the designer’s role to guide them into trying on samples and choosing a look that suits them which isn’t always what the client originally imagined themselves in. Thanks to Peng’s skill and knowledge, 99% of the time the design is locked in from the first consultation. The design is then made into a toile in a different fabric so that the client can see it on and then Peng and her team can tweak it to be a perfect dream dress every time.
It’s that level of service and attention to detail as well as her divine designs that is helping garner Peng an ever increasing clientele, and the fact that everything is custom-made and she doesn’t wholesale means she is able to maintain full control of her business. With her exciting move to LA cemented by her own showroom soon, we’re sure it’s just a matter of time before Trish Peng’s creations are gracing Hollywood’s hottest red carpets and high profile front covers. Peng has always dreamed of being New Zealand’s version of Vera Wang and now it’s another step closer to becoming her reality.
Profile image of Trish Peng supplied.
Runway images by James Yang Photography.