New Zealand fashion is at a crossroads, with a new generation of designers reshaping the landscape and pushing the boundaries of what’s possible.
From minimalist luxury to groundbreaking craftsmanship, these designers aren’t just creating clothes – they’re defining a future where style is both local and global, bold and timeless. In this piece, we spotlight six visionaries who are shaping the future of Aotearoa fashion.
Among them are Sarah Harris Gould & Lauren Tapper of Harris Tapper, whose understated yet sophisticated designs have quickly become a staple in New Zealand women’s wardrobes. Dayne Johnston, the new Head of Design at Kowtow, is bridging New Zealand’s fashion legacy with the ethical and sustainable future of fashion. Caitlin Crisp is creating timeless, sell-out pieces that resonate with women across generations, while Rory Docherty brings a quiet yet powerful energy to New Zealand menswear. And finally, Joshua Heares, the founder of Porter James Sports, is leading the charge for New Zealand unisex fashion with his refined, modern approach that’s already becoming an iconic presence on Ponsonby Road.
These designers aren’t just changing the game – they’re defining the future of New Zealand fashion. Keep an eye on them; their impact will be felt for years to come.
Sarah Harris Gould & Lauren Tapper of Harris Tapper
Harris Tapper is the kind of brand that defines a wardrobe, not just seasons. Launched in December 2017 by Sarah Harris Gould and Lauren Tapper, the New Zealand label has swiftly established itself as a go-to for those who prefer their fashion with a quiet sense of authority. Effortlessly cool yet inherently sophisticated, Harris Tapper’s collections sell out almost instantly, proving their innate understanding of what modern women actually want to wear. The demand extends beyond the brand’s own e-commerce platform, with resale sites witnessing a frenzy whenever a pre-loved Harris Tapper piece appears, only to be snapped up in record time.
Sarah Harris Gould and Lauren Tapper’s friendship began at a global clothing brand in New Zealand, where their combined love for fashion and business quickly clicked. Sarah, with her experience in buying and brand management in both New Zealand and London, teamed up with Lauren, a design and PR whiz. In 2017, the duo spotted a gap in the market for high-quality, on-trend women’s shirting at a price that wasn’t steeped in luxury – but still had that same elevated feel. Their solution? Launching their own label, a perfect mix of style and accessibility.
With a footprint across New Zealand and Australia, the label’s stockists include cult-favourite boutiques such as The Undone, The New Trend, and Muse, alongside established players like Scotties and The Iconic. This presence is a testament to Harris Tapper’s unique positioning: luxurious yet accessible, directional yet wearable. Their approach is rooted in a considered design ethos, where every piece is infused with the brand’s signature balance of structure and fluidity-tailored blazers meet soft draping, precision meets ease.
“At our core, we design for the contemporary working woman. These women have multi-faceted lives, they’re busy and accomplished. Fabrications, proportions and the cuts need to have a high level of versatility and functionality to serve these lives.” Says Sarah Harris Gould in an interview with Vogue Australia
Aesthetically refined and conceptually bold, Harris Tapper exists for women who dress with an instinctive confidence. The brand’s campaigns, often captured by New Zealand photographer and longtime collaborator Holly Sarah Burgess (Ngāpuhi, Te Ātihaunui-a-Pāpārangi), mirror this ethos – cool girls in beautifully cut clothing, shot with a raw yet polished sensibility. The visuals never feel overworked, a deliberate choice that aligns with the brand’s belief that great design should speak for itself.
Their latest collection continues this legacy, delivering a masterclass in modern tailoring with a softness that feels distinctly Harris Tapper. The structured silhouettes and fluid fabrics make for a wardrobe that’s both effortless and impactful. And then, of course, there’s the Eliza Top – the draped, off-the-shoulder style that sent New Zealand fashion lovers into a collective frenzy. The piece became an instant icon, proving once again that Harris Tapper doesn’t just design clothes; they create cult fashion moments.
For a brand that has built its name on quiet luxury and sharp precision, Harris Tapper has made an undeniable impact – one that cements them as a cornerstone of New Zealand fashion. If there were a hall of fame for local designers, their place in it would already be secured. And if the past few years have proved anything, it’s that Harris Tapper isn’t just a moment – they’re here to stay.
Dayne Johnston for Kowtow
If Zambesi is the past, and Kowtow is the future, then Dayne Johnston is the bridge that will connect 60 years of New Zealand fashion evolution.
Much like the groundbreaking Zambesi duo of Neville and Liz Findlay who were instrumental in creating an actual New Zealand fashion industry in the modern sense, Dayne holds the same level of humility and shyness that his mentors have become so well known for. Despite the scale and magnitude to which the Zambesi name became ubiquitous in the minds and hearts of any discerning Kiwi fashionphile, the background presence and guiding hand the Findlays offered to the industry influences the calm and humble energy that Dayne possesses.
Born and raised in Wānaka, Central Otago, Johnston’s early fascination with fashion was sparked by watching his mother sew her own garments. This curiosity led him to experiment with styling and explore global fashion through magazines like The Face and i-D. At 18, he moved to Wellington to formally study fashion design, setting the foundation for his career.
In 2003, Johnston joined Zambesi, one of New Zealand’s most iconic fashion houses. Initially overseeing finishing and quality control, he quickly rose to become the brand’s menswear designer. Over his 20-year tenure, he played a pivotal role in defining Zambesi’s menswear aesthetic, working closely alongside co-founder and womenswear designer Elisabeth Findlay. He has often credited his time at Zambesi as a deeply formative period, where he honed his design philosophy and creative approach.
In mid-2023, Johnston embraced a new challenge, returning to Wellington as Head of Design at Kowtow. Known for its uncompromising commitment to ethical and sustainable fashion, Kowtow was a natural fit for Johnston’s values-driven approach to design. He leads the Design Team and oversees all aspects of Kowtow’s Fairtrade organic cotton collections, bringing his expertise in refined tailoring and textile innovation to the brand. Former Kowtow Creative Director, Marilou Dadat, has praised Johnston for his fresh perspective and deep respect for craftsmanship, qualities that align seamlessly with Kowtow’s ethos.
Like Docherty, Johnston will not clamber for front-page attention, instead choosing to make silent moves that resonate with key industry heads and real fashion fans. Unlike many of the designers we’ve profiled, Johnston’s name isn’t above the door of the stores that sell his clothes. This was very much a hallmark of fashion designers who shaped our last 30 years: Karen Walker, Kate Sylvester, Helen Cherry, Juliette Hogan, Maggie Marilyn. And it’s not a local thing – this happens all over the world. But there’s a level of ego that influences those decisions, and Johnston is cut from a different cloth. Again, most likely inspired by the Findlays, Johnston is a grafter, a worker bee, silently toiling away for a great purpose, but not demanding the recognition. In an age of digital celebrity where everyone thinks they’re famous, Johnston is a reminder that good things take time, and sometimes the quiet voice is the most powerful.
Caitlin Crisp
In the vibrant tapestry of New Zealand’s fashion scene, Caitlin Crisp emerges as a designer whose passion is woven into her very DNA. Hailing from Christchurch, Caitlin’s lineage boasts a rich heritage of seamstresses and tailors, with her grandmother and great-grandfather mastering the craft before her. At the age of 12, a pivotal moment arrived when her aunt gifted her a sewing machine. From that point, Caitlin’s journey was stitched with determination and creativity, leading her to establish a brand that resonates with elegance and authenticity.
Caitlin’s foray into the limelight began in 2018 with her participation in the inaugural season of Project Runway New Zealand. The experience not only amplified her profile but also solidified her resolve to launch her eponymous label. Reflecting on this transformative period, Caitlin acknowledges the show’s role in boosting her confidence and providing invaluable insights into branding and the fashion industry.
Since the establishment of her label in 2018, Caitlin has been unwavering in her commitment to creating “fun, feminine, forever pieces” that celebrate timeless femininity. Drawing inspiration from the influential women in her life, including her mother and close friends, her designs encapsulate a blend of elegance and playfulness. Each collection is a testament to her dedication to longevity and versatility, ensuring that every piece resonates with women across various stages of life. This philosophy has cultivated a loyal clientele who appreciate the thoughtful craftsmanship and enduring appeal of her creations.
Caitlin Crisp has cultivated an online community that feels like an extension of her brand’s ethos. Her followers are more than just customers – they’re loyalists who feel personally connected to her journey. From early design concepts shared with fans to intimate moments like her wedding and even the recent announcement of her pregnancy, Caitlin’s audience has been with her every step of the way. They know not just what she’s designing, but who’s behind the scenes, including her small team, making her brand feel personal and genuine.
With collections that consistently sell out and a devoted fan base that eagerly anticipates every drop, Caitlin Crisp is well on its way to becoming a household name.
As Caitlin Crisp’s brand approaches its fifth anniversary, her journey from a young girl with a sewing machine to a celebrated designer is a narrative of passion, perseverance, and purpose. With a dynamic team based in the heart of Tāmaki Makaurau, she continues to infuse her collections with the same enthusiasm that sparked her career. While specific future projects remain under wraps, Caitlin’s trajectory suggests a continued evolution that will undoubtedly leave an indelible mark on New Zealand’s fashion landscape.
Rory Docherty
If comparing apples with apples, Rory Docherty doesn’t fit the New Zealand fashion designer mould. He’s not the new Kate, or the new Karen, he’s not the new Dobbs or Crane, and he’s also set himself apart from the Juliettes, Maggies and Georgias. But he’s trained and worked under Helen and Chris, been inspired by Yohji and Miuccia, helped to steer Swanndri, and has the potential to carve a new aesthetic for Aotearoa fashion design for the next decade.
Rory’s first ever Australian Fashion Week show in 2024 helped him to break into the global arena in a meaningful way, and had him cited as ‘The Best of AFW’ by prestigious fashion tastemakers Moda Operandi. But this isn’t where fashion started for him, and it’s certainly not where it’ll end.
Like most passionate but timid fashion designers, Rory has woven himself a detailed tapestry of experience over time, including plenty of time in Europe and Asia soaking up the techniques that now see him pegged as a master manipulator of cloth. This craft would have been honed at Swanndri during his tenure there at the age of 21, just as much as it would have been honed working with authentic Chinese makers, using age-old hand printing and indigo plant dying processes during Rory’s time working for Workshop.
Add to all of this time spent in design and production development for Topshop as well as alongside Italian tailors and Indian beaders, and you get the sense he’s a diamond that’s been produced over years of intense pressure.
Where New Zealand fashion goes in the next 10-20 years is anyone’s guess, but one thing is certain: unlike the handful of strong designers who shaped Aotearoa fashion design between 1990-2010, Rory is a new breed, borne from the global lens now seen as a prerequisite to surviving in the digital age. Rory’s old-school craftsmanship mixed with typical creative humility also makes him a sure bet against a cover of Woman’s Day or a spot on the next Celebrity Treasure Island. Rory is truly unique in New Zealand’s diverse fashion industry and, if we’re smart about it, we’ll champion him as a key to unlock global relevance for years to come.
Joshua Heares
Joshua Heares didn’t just launch Porter James Sports – he built it with precision, patience, and a clear vision of what New Zealand menswear was missing. Founded in 2021, the brand was born from Heares’ frustration with the lack of elevated yet effortless options for men in Aotearoa. He saw a gap between streetwear and suiting – something that felt refined but not restrictive, considered but never overthought. That space became the foundation for Porter James Sports, a label designed for the modern metro man who values understated luxury and a wardrobe that moves seamlessly through the everyday.
Unlike similar brands that have flickered and faded, Porter James Sports is here to stay, carving out a permanent space in the local fashion landscape and proving that New Zealand menswear is more than just an afterthought.
Joshua Heares’ path to fashion wasn’t conventional. Before launching Porter James Sports, he went to AUT and studied a Bachelor of Business and after graduating spent a decade in advertising, drawn to the industry after being inspired by the sharp suits and slick storytelling of Mad Men. Heares built a career crafting narratives and shaping brands, but over time, his focus shifted. The rise of e-commerce caught his attention, and he became fascinated by the direct-to-consumer model and the power of online retail. Eventually, the pull was too strong to ignore. He walked away from advertising and channeled his expertise into something of his own—Porter James Sports.
If you’ve wandered Ponsonby Road, chances are you’ve spotted some iconic PJS pieces such as the Pleated Trouser or the Porter Snapback in the wild. The now-iconic cap has become something of a local uniform, worn by the city’s most in-the-know dressers. It’s a testament to the quiet cult following that Heares has cultivated – his pieces don’t shout, but they still make a statement. Whether perched on the head of a creative on K-Road or paired with relaxed tailoring for the inner-city yo-pro’s, the Porter Snapback has cemented itself as a defining accessory of Auckland’s style scene.
Beyond the clothes, Heares is helping to shift the perception of New Zealand menswear. Traditionally, the space has been dominated by a more rugged, utilitarian approach, but Porter James Sports offers a different narrative – one that embraces elevated, urban dressing without pretence. Through considered tailoring, thoughtful branding, and a keen understanding of his audience, Heares is putting New Zealand on the map as a serious player in contemporary men’s & unisex fashion.
Porter James Sports is gaining significant international traction, with 80% of sales coming from overseas. Melbourne leads as the top market, followed by Auckland and then New York, where the brand’s modern tailoring and understated luxury have captured the attention of fashion-forward residents.
With Porter James Sports, Joshua Heares is leading the charge for the future of New Zealand fashion – and he’s doing it on his own terms. The brand isn’t chasing trends or seeking validation from fleeting hype cycles. Instead, it is building a foundation that is meant to last, setting a new standard for how New Zealand men approach style. As Porter James Sports continues to grow, one thing is clear: this is only the beginning.