Designer Ruscoe Bustenera-Kirby. Image supplied.
Ruscoe Bustenera-Kirby began creating his eponymous couture label Ruscoe after graduating from the New Zealand Academy of Fashion in 2016. Ruscoe set about making his dream to be a fashion designer a reality after moving to New Zealand from the Philippines in 2011. He debuted his label on the runway in the Emerging Couture show at New Zealand Fashion Week 2018 where his collection was cohesive and eye-catching. Each garment is carefully hand-made in New Zealand and the designer offers a made-to-measure service alongside his ready-to-wear collections. Ruscoe’s new Autumn/Winter 2021 collection is popping up at Ponsonby Central from Easter Monday 5th April to Sunday 11th April where customers can shop the range in person and get styling advice from the designer.
We caught up with Ruscoe to find out more about his brand, what inspires him and what you would never catch him wearing!
Tell us about your latest collection?
Looking back, my new Autumn/Winter Collection all started when I took the first step on the stairs of the hidden entrance to the Secret Annex of Prinsengracht 263 in Amsterdam. Anne Frank was front-of-mind when I was creating this collection amid Covid restrictions. I can hear Anne’s diary ‘Kitty’ narrating her story to me as each piece comes to life.
The high necklines with exploded sleeves that finish in sleeve cuffs depict the feeling of being trapped but hopeful at the same time. The bodycon dresses and gowns took shape when I remembered how Anne was exploring her sexuality. The geometric prints reflect the maze that is the secret annex. The hues of red, pink, black, cream came from the actual diary as I encounter it face to face. Classic and pronounced a-line silhouettes mixed with severe high-low skirts evoke the feeling of what it was and what could be. I used different fabrics like 3D mesh, faux leather, scuba knits, nets, cotton sateens and canvas fabric.
The plan was to showcase this collection an an international Fashion Week but then Covid hit. I was more and more immersed in the feeling of constriction and frustration. It was hard for a small business like me but just like Anne, I taught myself to see the silver lining amidst the circumstances. I learned how to be more patient, more self-aware, more creative and more agile.
I thought how can I turn this around? I only offer couture and made-to-measure. Then came the birth of my ready-to-wear pieces in the same inspiration from the two poignant events in my head. One in 1942 and the other in 2020. This is when I challenged my norm and business approach. As I pivot my business goal it became more and more clear that I want couture to be more wearable and accessible. For my business to pick up again and flourish in keeping with my brand values and integrity.
Looks from Ruscoe’s Autumn/Winter 2021 collection.
What made you become a designer?
I want to turn curtains into gowns – if Fraulein Maria can – so can I. Kidding aside, it was my mama and my sister Orange who saw the talent in me. They were the propellers of where I am at now.
I can never forget when I was a kid, my mama was always taking me with her to the couturier and she would ask my opinion on the designs of her gowns. My sister was one of my style icons. She would mix and match outfits that one would think wouldn’t go together, but they totally worked.
I didn’t take a fashion design course until I moved to New Zealand. Before in the Philippines, the dream was too far-fetched for me because it was a matter of what can bring food to the table but now I know everything happened for a reason. To cut the story short, during the last few days of when my mama was alive, she encouraged me to move here and be with my dad and sisters. It was a bittersweet moment for me because I left with a broken heart but arrived with doors open to opportunities. I studied fashion design and here I am.
What inspires you?
People close to my heart, pivotal and poignant events, places that make me remember significant events in my life. I also just discovered that I’m inspired by situations where I’m pushed to the limit, pressured and stressed – it turns me into a diamond.
Describe your personal style and how it influences your designs?
Quirky and colour. I love texture, colour and patterns. I love wearing brooches on my vest or shirt, printed socks on colourful trainers but with restraint, as defined by my own dictionary, like not overly crazy. Don’t get me wrong, I also have those “inner-saboteur” days wherein I can’t be bothered. I wear a Mickey Mouse shirt and cookie monster pyjamas. Maybe my feeling dictates my style.
What is your all-time favourite purchase?
I purchased a bunny brooch a few years ago and I love wearing it. It brings out my quirkiness and confidence.
Looks from Ruscoe’s Autumn/Winter 2021 collection.
What wardrobe item should everyone invest in?
I love wearing hats. They became my crown and glory when I started losing my hair, so I say a good quality hat.
Do you have a style rule you always obey?
I obey two style icons. They are quite contradicting in some sense but works for me.
Iris Apfel – “More is more and less is a bore.”
Coco Chanel – “Before you leave the house, look in the mirror and take one thing off.”
What has been the highlight of your career so far?
I have a few highlights. NZFW 2018 was a big one as it launched my career, but definitely Alexander McQueen featuring a print I created on their brand’s Instagram is like a seal of approval from my fashion icon. Also, building my brand values and building relationships with local suppliers – I enjoy this a lot.
What can’t you live without?
My husband, my dog Baloo and Tiger Balm, lol.
Finish this sentence – You would never catch me wearing…
A latex top because I will look like a sausage, lol.