Loungewear by ARBY&OPAL. Image supplied.
The business of fashion is as fast-paced and competitive as ever, and starting a fashion brand with no industry experience is no easy feat. An industry outlier, psychology graduate and marketer Renee Brown had no intention of pursuing a career in fashion. Launched in 2019 as activewear, ARBY&OPAL gained traction during the country’s first lockdown for its timely release of laid-back loungewear. Two years on, ARBY&OPAL is the go-to for contemporary active and loungewear that sees the wearer from street to studio.
An avid runner, Renee had always loved keeping fit but found it difficult to reason with overpriced activewear. Bringing her own line of quality products at a reasonable price was the most proactive solution. The ‘ARBY’ in ‘ARBY&OPAL’ is the phonetic equivalent of her initials; and ‘OPAL’ is her mother’s birthstone, and also her father’s, who passed away when she and her brother were very young. While fashion was never the driver, Renee injected enough passion and sentimentality to break into the Australasian market.
ARBY&OPAL’s full range consists of a jogger, crop hoodie, full length hoodie, zip hoodie and a summer set. From neutral caramels and cocoas to pastel hues, the brand encourages women to reach their fitness and wellness goals in whatever they feel best. ARBY&OPAL can be purchased online and at selected stockists.
We caught up with Renee to find out about product ideation, her take on fast fashion and what her advice is for anyone who wants to start a fashion brand?
You founded A&O with no fashion industry experience. Are you a part of the design process?
Yes! Because suppliers and manufacturers output in bulk, they do have set styles that you can choose from and customise. I was never 100% happy with the samples I got – there were things I wanted to tweak which was a huge risk. Starting off as a business with no loans or financing and just a sum of money, you have to risk it all.
I was quite selfish and went with what I wanted as a consumer. I changed the fit, dimensions, fabric count and colour. I could have gone with a set design but you need a certain point of difference which is why I customise our designs.
Do you find it difficult prioritising quality staples in the Instagram era when re-wearing clothes can be seen as ‘unfashionable’?
I’m not a fashion designer – I never have been or aspired to be. I’m not someone to design something crazy and out of the box that’s going to come into fashion and go, and I’m never going to have a runway. I’m in fashion, but I create staple pieces. Our jogger sets will never really go out of fashion because they’re simple. Sweatpants have never gone out of fashion, they peak during winter and roll over into the next year. People just want comfy clothes – I don’t hang around home in jeans. The simplicity of the designs is a real key factor for A&O.
What inspires you?
With the activewear, I know exactly what I want because I use it. I wear it. I pretty much live in it. When I go to the gym I want certain things. Most people like simple, dark coloured activewear that doesn’t show sweat lines. Most don’t want bright colours – some do, but there’s always going to be a smaller market for it because people go the gym and want quality black or grey activewear.
But with loungewear, I did so much online shopping during lockdown trying to find comfy hoodies and track pants and everything I ordered was canvas, unlined and freezing cold. It seemed like a real lack in the market.
It wasn’t so much inspiration but selfishness – what do I want in a track pant? I want it to be double-lined, warm, practical and to look nice. That’s why our tracksuits are a thick material that sits nicely. You can dress up our styles, especially if they’re charcoal or black. If I was going to Queenstown I would wear them to the vineyards with a blazer or trench thrown over the top. The cropped hoodie is our best seller because it’s flattering. There’s a start and finish to our tracksuits – your track pants finish and a hoodie starts, rather than your track pants just trailing on.
The A&O MINIs are adorable! How did you come up with the idea and what made you want to produce children’s clothing?
Meeting all the expectations of being ethical, environmentally friendly and no waste is a hard thing to nail from the get go. A&O MINIs are our first step towards that.
When you make a women’s tracksuit, there are a lot of off-cuts. We’ve found a way to cut the fabric so that the excess waste can be used to make MINIs. It’s not enough fabric to make another women’s tracksuit and so would go to waste otherwise. It’s about ethically reusing the waste fabric to create something.
Plus A&O MINIs are adorable! What savvy Instagram mums don’t want to match their kids?
A&O MINIs work well because there’s nothing like them. I did a lot of research on tracksuits and kids sets, and I feel like there’s a limited market for children’s clothes. There are a lot of basics but nothing like this.
A&O joggers and hoodies sold out within minutes of launch. How did you expand sales following that initial success? Will A&O expand beyond Australasia?
We’re now shipping to the U.S. – there’s a big market for New Zealand brands and streetwear.
In its initial phases, A&O grew organically through Instagram. We only incorporated Facebook ads recently. Instagram and Facebook are their own marketplaces that come with their own demographics.
Last year we got a skit on Seven Sharp which expanded our age demographic to 40-60. That market likes quality, which is why they like our product. They may not necessarily like the cropped versions of the hoodies but that’s why we’ve brought in full length and zipper hoods. We’re also sizing from 2XS to 3XL for women this winter. We’ve caught the eye of these markets and now it’s about expanding the range to cater for them.
What advice can you give people wanting to start a fashion brand?
When I first started the business and asked this question, everyone gave me one answer. I rolled my eyes at it but it’s so true – be passionate.
At 25, I left my full time marketing job being so scared. I had security there and thought I could potentially be ruining my life. People try so hard to get jobs in New Zealand and I planned to work my way up in the company. As soon as I left, my days weren’t as busy and I started to regret my decision. But you have to have the passion, drive and initiative to just go ahead and do it.
When I first started A&O, I had a passion for activewear – being active and wearing clothes that I like. I wasn’t into loungewear or tracksuits at the time but now I love them.
Get a trusted business mentor or consultant. I always recommend having an outside person that gives you advice and calls you up on things you wouldn’t even think about.
A lot of people ask about finding a manufacturer. That was all found by jumping on a computer and Googling. I spent hours, days and months finding someone I could trust, and another few months developing that relationship. Building relationships is the thing that saved me.
So – be passionate, get a business mentor and build relationships!
What can we expect from A&O in the future?
Anything is possible! People love A&O for the quality and feel of our fabrics so I like the idea of sticking to the same fabrics but incorporating different styles.
The more you branch out, the more risk you are taking and it’s harder for customers to shop. When you have products of different fabrics, materials and qualities, you risk losing their trust. That’s why I like keeping it simple and sticking to what A&O customers know and love.
Image supplied.