Billini creator Susannah Khouzame
Anyone who’s met me more than once will quickly realise that I have an overabundance of enthusiasm when it comes to footwear. This isn’t a recent passion/obsession. From as far back as I can remember, I’ve hated going barefoot and been endlessly tempted by the world of footwear, from classic loafers to sneakers (so many sneakers) and chunky, lace-up boots. I also have a deep unrequited love for long boots, but my collection has always been sadly lacking.
It’s not because I couldn’t find any that I love. I’ve fallen victim to love at first sight more times than socially admissible. I’m unbiased in this love — everything from deep rich brown beauties, an alluring smoky grey, and the lightest shade of tan to a mesmerising classic hunter green, even a jaunty crimson, and, of course, black. An endless array of luscious black long boots. I’ve yearned for so many, but this particular journey has been a constant disappointment, spanning years of hope. And despite my best efforts, until recently, across decades of searching, my wardrobe has remained unfairly void of long boots.
There have been so many try-ons, so few successful zip-ups. Even the more flexible and size-aware lace-ups have been a fail. Some designs don’t even make it past ankle. Some tantalisingly zip up halfway, but before full closure, even the most tenacious zip teeth start straining. It’s not exactly a confidence-boosting or pleasurable experience.
I’m not alone in my frustration. It’s a talking point (and sore point) with many fellow footwear lovers similarly afflicted. And by the way, we’re not abnormal — we’re normal. There’s just ridiculously little size inclusivity when it comes to long boots catering for anyone with even a hint of a calf or lower leg shape.
While a number of brands sometimes look promising with XW options, the sad reality is that usually even these fall disappointingly short of catering to the reality that, just as with clothing, women come in all shapes and sizes. Empty promises after empty promises.
However, it’s not all an endless tale of woe. One of the perks of working in this industry is being exposed to new collections and brands, so when a heads up about the new Australian-based Billini Curve collection came across my desk, my heart experienced a flutter of hope at the words that said all the right things.
Turns out, this time, the hype was true. Hello Billini Curve — my new BFF. I’m now the proud owner of my first ever pair of spectacular western-inspired (aka cowboy) long boots, with a stacked heel, western embroidery, mega comfort, and most astonishingly of all, space to spare around my hitherto apparently undesirable calves.
At long last I can wear flowing long dresses with long boots, and jeans with long boots. There’s indeed enough space in there for me to tuck my jeans in. Wanna join me in a holler of undiluted joy?
With my first (of many, I suspect) Billini Curve boots taking pride of place in my wardrobe and being the new focal point of pretty much every winter look, I set out to find out more about this genuinely size-inclusive brand that’s helping everyone who has struggled with the shame of endless ‘not-a-chance-honey’ looks in shoe stores.
Billini creator Susannah Khouzame kicked back for a quick Q+A, including some of the inspiration behind this newest collection.
What inspired the Billini Curve collection?
As the love of our brand reaches new heights and Billini is seen on more and more feet, we realised that not only do feet shapes and sizes differ tremendously, but so do body shapes. We have, therefore, made a conscious effort to evolve into a more inclusive brand that is made to fit ‘as you are’.
As a go-to brand for accessible and fashionable footwear, we have realised that not all girls have tiny calves, and there is a real lack of on-trend wide-calf boots globally, so being able to offer a range of boots that caters to all shapes and sizes has been a proud moment for the brand.
What were the challenges/rewards of creating this collection?
All rewards come with their challenges, and we experienced our main challenges by perfecting our fit, which was something we weren’t going to compromise on. We went through several fitting samples and fit them on a wide range of shapes and sizes to ensure we developed a fit that would cater to a broad customer group. The sampling and production process was, therefore, far more extensive and required a lot more time and attention from the team, however, this is expected with any new project.
The greatest reward was definitely the overwhelming feedback and messages I received shortly after shooting our first campaign and sharing the collection on social media. The excitement and gratitude received was a turning point for me, and a real driver to continue to broaden our diverse offering into a brand of purpose, something I have become very passionate about.
What are you most proud of in terms of the Billini Curve collection?
Our design and production teams have been absolutely amazing and extremely passionate about this launch, and without their perseverance and dedication, we wouldn’t have made it to the finish line. We’ve all learned so much and are excited to continue to grow this category as a permanent part of our offering now, with all the skills required to make it happen seamlessly.
Our strong teamwork has ultimately enabled the brand to give women of all shapes and sizes access to on-trend styles that previously weren’t available to them. It has been a serious step in the right direction for our culture and to promote inclusivity, which we are especially proud to be leading the market with.
Why do you think this sector of women’s footwear (wider feet and calves) has traditionally been somewhat overlooked?
I believe it’s because of the technical limitations and challenges of getting the fit right, as well as the costs and time associated with developing moulds in each size of each style. I do believe it’s more the norm in the apparel space, however, the process and tools required in apparel differ tremendously from footwear.
Most brands also run regular sizes from 5 through to 10, however, in recent years, brands have started to diversify into offering extended sizes including 4s and 11s, which we’ve offered for a while now, including offering size 12s in our most recent drop of Curve boots.
However, not many brands cater to wide feet, especially fast fashion brands. Billini offers a wide range of wide-fitting heels and boots to cater to those with wide feet also. We are also extending this into sandals next season, as there is a clear demand for growth in this category for us.
The reality is, many girls have wide feet and wider calves, especially in Australia, New Zealand, and the US, and therefore, it should be the norm to cater to them, but it’s just not the case. We’re dedicated to continuing to explore what diversity looks like in every single way.
What is important to know about Billini being part of this change for inclusivity?
Our shoes are designed to fit a diverse range of shapes and sizes to ensure that no one is excluded from looking and feeling amazing and inclusive. Our dedicated range of inclusive styles includes wide-fitting shoes, wide-calf fitting boots, and extended sizes from 4 to 12 in most importantly our best-selling styles.
But it’s also more than just the perfect fit. We recognise that it’s so important for all to know and feel that their voices, wants, and needs have been heard.
What were some of the inspirations behind the Curve 2023 design choices?
Based on the overwhelming response and success of our very first Curve range in September last year, we’ve now listened and learnt and are excited to share what’s next for Billini Curve, including new on-trend styles and a fresh new colour palette of warm neutrals and black staples.
We focused on our three core bestsellers so that our Curve range is an extension of our regular range, which many customers appreciated. The range mix is diverse, including our best-selling western boot Urson, a new low-heel height casual boot, a flat stretch suede boot, a couple of high block staples, as well as a super stylish square toe stiletto boot in a mid-height which is my personal favourite of the season.
What are some of the most valued lessons learned from more than a decade of Billini and its evolution?
We’ve faced many challenges and learnt many lessons within the past decade, but what’s important is ensuring we learn and grow from them.
Over the years, Billini has trialled and tested many supply partners with the aim to secure only the highest quality standards in our products, which I believe we’ve now finally achieved. This did not come about easily, with many crucial learnings, trips to offshore factories, and hurdles along the way.
Business is always about problem-solving and navigating through challenges faced, and I believe this has become a major strength of our team and culture to ensure we find a solution to any problem, big or small.
A personal challenge that the business as a whole needed to overcome was the time I became a new Mum, as I was very hands-on and depended upon in these early years. I was forced to juggle the challenges of being a new Mum as well as continue to focus on a fast-growing business that needed a lot of my time and energy and ultimately needed to trust my team to make many decisions that I would normally. With the support of my amazing team and family, I ultimately found the balance between being a businesswoman and a loving and supportive mother.
Aiming high, forward-planning, and working closely with a talented and passionate team is a key formula for the success of the brand today.
The Billini Curve collection is available online with a collection of 10 styles including a soft suede over-the-knee boot.
Images supplied