Mary and Greta Washington
Mother and daughter duo Mary and Greta Washington have quite the collection of designer shoes between them. They also have the distinction of having founded and launched their own footwear business Head Over Heels in 2007, in Timaru, sharing their passion for high-quality footwear.
The duo opened their second luxury boutique in Christchurch in 2009 and grew an impressive online service in 2015 sharing their passion with women across New Zealand and Australia. The launch of Head over Heels own in-house brand, Abigayle, took place in 2021 and was the culmination of many facets of Greta’s specific interests.
Having studied Spatial Design after leaving school, Greta admits to having always been obsessed with architecture, furniture, and design.
“Basically anything structural, so I guess shoes fall into that category too,” she says.
Available solely through Head Over Heels, Abigayle is created with Greta working alongside Carrie Cooper (former Beau Coops designer). The bespoke collection is handcrafted in Spain and committed to ethically sourced materials and supply chain, as well as being part of a manufacturing co-op of artisans.
While the original Abigayle collection (AW21) featured a small range of loafers and boots, the brand has continuously evolved by updating previous seasons’ favourites and introducing new styles.
This season offers a slight androgynous/masculine feel, particularly across the boot designs.
“We wanted to create styles that would look cool with a tailored suit or edge up a feminine outfit,” says Great. “We focused on strong silhouettes rather than the really chunky soles from previous seasons.”
The Abigayle loafer continues to be a popular choice for many and this range has expanded also.
Hot on the heels of the new Abigayle A/W23 collection, FashioNZ chats with Greta about her love of footwear and her evolution into a footwear designer.
What sparked your original interest in footwear?
My mum bought her first shoe store when I was six years old, so I’ve grown up in the industry. Running a fashion business became part of who I am. I picked things up naturally from going buying with Mum from a young age and her letting me take the risks. Mum and I won a trip to Europe to all the international shoe fairs and that sparked our interest in opening Head over Heels in Timaru.
I helped with all the buying and designed the store fit-out. I managed Head over Heels in Timaru for the first six months and absolutely loved it. We had a lot of customers who would come down from Christchurch to shop with us. This is what made me decide to be open in Christchurch two years later.
What was the original concept behind Head Over Heels as a brand (back in 2007) and how has this evolved since?
The original concept for Head over Heels in Timaru was to source handcrafted European shoes that were unique and not available elsewhere in New Zealand and to offer the best customer experience.
We have evolved in the fact that we are passionate about supporting our local New Zealand and Australian brands such as Bronwyn, Deadly Ponies, La Tribe, R.M Williams, and Nelson Made. We are also now working along with Carrie Cooper (previously the designer for Beau Coops) to develop the Abigayle collection, which is all handcrafted in Spain and only available at Head over Heels.
In 2015, we opened our online store. This has been hugely successful for us and growing year on year. The online world is an ever-evolving part of our business. Providing our customers with outstanding customer service is still at the heart of what we do.
What were some of the early challenges in establishing and growing the business?
The biggest challenge by far was the Christchurch earthquake. We lost almost everything, including all of our stock and fit-out. It was really challenging deciding where to relocate the business to as there were not many options and no real hub.
We finally found a spot in Merivale a year later. We had started the fit-out process and soon found out that the building was not safe and was going to be pulled down. With all our winter stock arriving, we had nowhere to trade from. We traded from the Merivale Manor Motel for a month, then a container at the Re:Start Container Mall became vacant so we moved in there. There were endless challenges during this time.
We were lucky that the Re:start Container Mall thrived, as we were trading in the middle of a red zone and all we had around us were other small businesses and Ballantynes so we relied on our loyal customers and tourists.
What were some pivotal moments in the brand’s growth?
Keeping our fingers on the pulse with our buying has helped constantly keep up the hype and excitement. Going online created brand awareness across New Zealand and led to a loyal following nationwide. We have an amazing community here in Christchurch and also have a lot of out-of-town customers who follow us on social media and shop with us online.
As difficult as the Christchurch earthquakes were, this was one of our biggest growth periods. The Re:Start Container Mall was an iconic spot where locals and visitors often came to visit.
When COVID first hit, we were already making several changes to our website, and then lockdowns emphasised the need to grow online even more. Also, during this time, the opportunity arose to work on our in-house brands, Abigayle and Ardour.
During tough times, you have to seek opportunities and make things happen. Every business has its challenges and it’s a positive attitude that gets you through it.
What have been some personal highlights along the way?
Buying has always been a big highlight. I love fashion and design, so I feel grateful to have travelled the world to source new and exclusive brands. This is a constant source of inspiration for me. Being a small business and now having two of our own brands is also a massive highlight.
After losing my first dream store in the earthquakes and then having a temporary store in the container mall, it was exciting to dream up our current store.
Celebrating our Christchurch store’s 10-year anniversary in 2019 was a big highlight. I’m passionate about what I do. It was great to celebrate with the people that support me – my amazing team and customers. HOH wouldn’t be what it is today without these people.
We’re excited to celebrate 15 years in March 2024.
A continuous highlight is working with a team of amazing young people and seeing them grow. I’ve gone from being a one-man band to having a team that supports me and the growth of the business.
Another huge highlight was having my son James at the end of 2020 and having a team that supported me through that time and still continues to support me.
What are some of the benefits and/or challenges of working together as a mother/daughter team?
Mum and I have a close relationship. We are more like friends so I think we are very lucky in this aspect. We bounce ideas off each other really well. Mum has more than 34 years experience in retail so she has a strong eye for fashion and endless knowledge of retail and customer service. I wouldn’t say there are any challenges. If anything, there are more benefits as we can speak our mind and neither of us take offence or anything personally.
What are the non-negotiables around your Abigayle brand?
Carrie and my main goal has always been to create elevated and contemporary twists on classics, designed to be cherished for many years to come. It’s also important that these are styles that we genuinely love and would wear ourselves.
Form, function, and fit are incredibly important, as well as being able to partner with a small hands-on family factory where we could get to know the owners and the team who make our products.
It’s a real collaboration between us. Carrie has 20-plus years of experience as a footwear designer, and I have 20 years of experience in retail and buying. Carrie is into vintage and pulls a lot of shapes from there and also designs items that she feels are missing in her wardrobe.
I draw inspiration from so many different places. I am previewing collections a year in advance so I have a lot of insight into what’s in the market and what’s missing. I get inspired from travelling and people-watching, making note of what people are wearing. I like curating pieces that become timeless classics while still feeling really modern and chic.
Where is the Abigayle collection made?
Abigayle is made in a small family-owned and operated factory in Alicante, Spain. The Alicante region is renowned for being the best shoe-making region in Spain. The factory is a second-generation family business, where their skilled artisans make everything by hand.
What might people be surprised to know about you/your brand?
Not only is the brand exclusive to us worldwide, but it is a design collaboration between myself and Carrie. When we tell customers this, they are surprised and excited that a small business is able to do this.
What is your own personal footwear style?
Effortless, tailored, strong structured silhouettes.
Your top tips/advice around caring for your footwear
Rotate your shoes so don’t wear the same pair each day. Give them time to breathe. If you purchase shoes with a leather sole, always make sure you wear them at least 20 times so they mould to your feet (this is a luxury feature of European-made footwear), then get a rubber sole placed on them. Nourish the leather with a nice leather conditioner. Leather is like your skin – it needs to be moisturised.
Images supplied