From New York to London, Milan and Paris ‘Fashion Month’ shows us what to wear, and why we care.
The international fashion industry is in flux, as creative directors of the world’s leading fashion brands are playing a game of musical chairs more tense than who gets to sit on the front row of the runway shows. (Because, believe me, the latter is shuffled and scuffled over here, too). The biggest debuts of the season (fall/winter 2025) were Sarah Burton for Givenchy, Haider Ackermann for Tom Ford and Julian Klausner for Dries Van Noten. These were ready-to-wear collections, but they all had an elevated touch – a blazer dress worn seemingly backwards, a neon dress not-for-knickers, and a velvet jacket covered in curtain tassels, to name a respective few.
While many of the shows were theatrical, with a cohort of complicated looks, there was a through-line of designs that delighted in the simple, everyday act of getting dressed – also evidenced by the outfits of invitees. Here are the ones we can’t wait to try on:
New York – Putting A Pin In It
Notable looks at New York Fashion Week were on the sleeker side, especially as the new creative director for Calvin Klein, Veronica Leoni, created a manifesto of minimalism. But that didn’t mean embellishment was off the table. The stand-out looks from Altuzarra were playfully adorned skivvies, dresses and skirts that would be difficult to sit, or rest an elbow, in. On the much more practical side, Tory Burch and Carolina Herrera showed streamlined looks with statement brooches added on top. Reimagined in innovative designs that add a touch of craftsmanship, personality, and adaptability, the brooch is surely due for a comeback.
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Sophie Divett Pohutakawa Leaf brooch
Royal Jewellery Studio Coil brooch
London Fashion Week – Countryside Charms
Britain’s countryside-style – barn jackets, heritage fabrics, riding pants and Wellington boots – show-jumped all over the runways this month, including Anna Sui in New York, Missoni in Milan, and Hermès in Paris. But of course, London Fashion Week was where these equestrian leaps knew no bounds. Especially effective looks came from Paul Costelloe and, finally, Burberry. While there was a certain English-eccentricity to these outfits, New Zealand has its own countryside charms – even if our stable seems more like a wild Kaimanawa than an Exmoor Pony (or Shoreditch Horse).
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Milan & Paris Fashion Weeks – Off Our Chest
Milan is Miuccia Prada’s town, and together with co-creative director Raf Simons, she created one of the most talked about shows. At Prada, the model’s hair was decidedly dishevelled, and the clothes were not tailored to the body but designed to shift from it. While this frazzled look is relatively easy to throw on at home, some of the finer points of the styling – and its delicate balances – may be missed. Instead, what I found most interesting about Mrs. Prada’s work this season was at sister brand Miu Miu’s show in Paris – where there were pointy ‘bullet’ bras. Certain curves should never be a ‘trend’ in fashion – instead, the unexpected addition of these conical forms offers another perspective of femininity, unconcerned with the ‘ideal’ rounded breast. As international fashion brands continue to contort the female form, New Zealand offers a range of lingerie labels that are concerned with giving their customers confidence and comfort over contouring – and I think that should be celebrated.
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Notes on Street Style
New Zealand will soon be wrapped in autumnal tones, and begin bundling up for winter. Fortunately, the street style at this Fashion Month was a masterclass in layering. Duster coats, with room for the ‘fashion-editor favourite’ grey sweater underneath, were worn with turned-up collars and often paired with wide-leg jeans and ankle boots or slacks and sneakers. The bold wore colourful tights, from sky blue to ballet pink, with equally colourful minis instead. (For beginners, it’s best to start with closed-toe shoes, too.) Those who braved bare legs slung an extra sweater over their blazer or utility coat to balance the look and act as a backup blanket. It’s one of our favourite styling tricks so far.
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Assembly Label Lara Cashmere knit
Standard Issue Merino Crop Funnel Neck jumper
What Can New Zealand Fashion Learn From All This?
After Fashion Month wrapped, it was announced that Demna was leaving Balenciaga for Gucci, Jonathan Anderson was leaving Loewe for (the worst kept industry secret) Dior, and Donatella Versace was bowing out of her family brand (where Miu Miu’s Dario Vitale will step up). The designer reshuffle has been the central talking point of Fashion Month. Just as seeing what attendees wear to the shows can be as interesting as what is on the runway, I think this preoccupation with designer appointments indicates many in the industry are waiting for something better to come along.
While the New Zealand fashion industry has also been going through a time of change, with beloved labels closing instead of finding a successor, now is the time to support our homegrown talent that focuses on creating genuine fashion collections – without the need for gossip or gimmicks. New Zealand Fashion Week owner Feroz Ali has assembled a governing Board to oversee a reinvigorated event that is relevant and inclusive. Aotearoa has a unique opportunity to showcase its multi-faceted fashion identity in an exciting new format – and hopefully, in an easy-to-manage schedule.
One of the biggest complaints from these overseas fashion weeks was that the organisation of shows (including unofficial, off-site shows) required invitees to traverse the city – with many writers, editors and influencers (including me) having to sacrifice shows to make the next. One of the brightest ideas I saw from Fashion Month was from the emerging Parisienne footwear label 1309SR. Instead of a static installation with their pumps on plinths, they offered delegates lifts to and fro as they showed a small collection of their favourite designs in the backseat. It’s a great example of a brand meeting its audience where they are. More of this, please.