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From girlification to bratification, it’s our fashion year in review

TikTok’s dominance in shaping fashion trends continues to grow.

Spring is almost upon us, and with that, we’ll be seeing some of the Northern Hemisphere summer trends start to trickle Down Under. Will it be a ‘Brat summer’ here in New Zealand, or will the fickle nature of fashion and pop culture trends deem this viral moment just that? A moment we missed while rugged up in our quilted jackets. 

British pop star Charlie XCX and the proliferation of Brat (the title of her latest album, for anyone unaware) would have been nothing without TikTok; in 2024 it’s the place where many fashion and culture trends begin and end. According to research conducted by Civic Science into fashion trends in 2023, social media is the single most popular place for younger adults to go for fashion inspiration. 

37 percent of the general population surveyed admitted to following fashion trends, up from 36 percent in 2022 and 34 percent in 2021. For Gen Z, this figure jumps to 68 percent, which is more than double the percentage of adults aged over 35 who follow fashion trends. TikTok is becoming the go-to search engine for many too, especially Gen Z. 

This trend is driven by the rise of social media and influencer marketing, with TikTok users increasingly relying on the platform’s search function for product reviews, offering a more personal and anecdotal approach than Google’s traditional results.

The Fashion Influencer Marketing Global Market Report 2024 revealed that fashion influencer marketing has grown exponentially in recent years. In terms of market size, the report predicted that it will grow from US$4.55 billion in 2023 to US$6.17 billion in 2024. And as influencers begin to promote affiliate links through link-in-bio technology, the experience becomes more beneficial for everyone involved, from the brand, to the influencer, to the consumer. 

While in previous decades, trends were relevant for years at a time (‘70s flower power, ‘80s power dressing, ‘90s grunge) these days they tend to be much more flash-in-the-pan, which can lead to over consumption as we attempt to keep up with what’s cool. 

That being said, many of the trends we’ve witnessed over the past year lean heavily on nostalgia, offering a modern take on styles from decades past, meaning you might find exactly what you’re looking for by putting down your phone and stepping into an op shop or two instead. 

As we take a look back on the year that’s been, these are the trends that have been all over our feeds. 

We’ve been green with envy over the UK’s Brat summer 

A far cry from the slicked back buns and minimalist styling of the ‘clean girl’ era that seems never ending, this latest indie sleaze moment is an invitation to let your hair down, maybe forget to wash it, and just give a little bit less of a sh*t. 

While Charlie XCX is responsible for the bratification of the past few months, there have been more nods to this dirty little trend in 2024. Think Venetia and her stylishly messy aesthetic in Emerald Finnell’s beautifully wicked film Saltburn, the whole vibe of model Gabbriette and her fiance Matty Healy, and the smudged eyeliner and slip dresses on the Prada Spring/Summer 2023 runway. 

Despite this, it seems we still love our sleek capsule wardrobes

While many of us might want to be a bit more carefree with our style, we’re still leaning heavily on the minimalist styling of a capsule wardrobe. Vogue Business recently wrote that Google searches for ‘capsule wardrobe’ have increased by 60 percent in the past 12 months – a capsule wardrobe essentially being a wardrobe full of ‘basic’ items that can easily be mixed and matched to create a uniform of sorts.

We love the idea of a capsule wardrobe as a way to consume less, buy better quality garments and choose pieces that have longevity style wise in your wardrobe (trench coats, blue jeans, the perfect t-shirt for example). 

Boho is back. Are the millennials ok? 

If you’ve been triggered by the return of boho, we get it. Chloe’s Autumn/Winter 2024 runway show had many of us reeling as front-row guests including Sienna Miller, Georgia May Jagger, Liya Kebede and Thomasin McKenzie, sat crossed legged with their wooden wedges on full display. 

Thankfully, this aesthetic has had a modern makeover for 2024 with a bit more of an understated nod to some of the boho elements of times past; think crochet, fringing and flowing fabrics but without all the bells and whistles. It’s fresher, not as frilly and more paired back. 

The flats are getting flatter

Ballet flats have been the shoe on everyone’s feet for a while now, but you may have noticed there’s a new style of flat creeping into the picture: the glove flat. This simple, almost sock-like shoe is devoid of all embellishments and details, free from straps, and certainly no bows.

It’s the type of shoe that lets your outfit do the talking, while still making a style statement. Proenza Schouler, A. Emery and St Agni all have versions and as we head into summer, we’ll no doubt see more of this simple style infiltrate the mass market. 

We’re raiding our dads’ relics for rugby jerseys 

And no, we’re not talking about that polyester Crusader’s jersey from a few years back, but if it’s a vintage ‘90s Steinlager-branded Canterbury jersey, then absolutely. Leaning into the preppy collegiate vibe that the thick cotton rugby jersey oozes (especially if it boasts a bold stripe), the trend pays homage to Princess Diana in her casual best, which is always a trend we can get behind. 

We saw brands including Dries Van Noten and JW Anderson put their spin on the jersey during the Spring 2024 runway shows, but this is certainly something you don’t need to spend a lot of money on to nail. In fact, the best rugby jersey is always going to be a second-hand one, so scour Trade Me or ask your dad if he’s got one lying around for you to revive. 

Your rugby jersey will look perfect with a bow. Yes, really

Bows have been big time for the past year, and we love them for their ability to add irony to an outfit (paired with your rugby jersey is the perfect example) or a way to make a statement worthy of a Copenhagen Fashion Week street style snap. 

Emerging from the girlification of everything in 2023 (hot girl walks, girl dinners) the trend began with Sandy Liang et al and the whimsical ribbons have still not come undone a year later. Yet another trend that can have you spending US$575 on a Roger Vivier crystal embellished hair clip, or $7 for five metres of ribbon from Spotlight to achieve essentially the same vibe.