Trelise Cooper has long been recognised as the queen of the dramatic Fashion Week show. Tonight, was truly no exception; the goodie bags were covered in tiny LEDs and Twink ed like stars on the delegates’ seats, the backdrop was at first a wall of golden balloons, and later a filigree of sparkles. Other designers must envy the ability of this woman to make her shows such a surprising experience from the moment you arrive to the moment you leave.
Trelise opened with Cooper, her less formal range. It was a riot of print and texture, with bold organic prints juxtaposed against stripes, checks, graphics and colour. Skirts and dresses were worn over pants, relaxed fits, and loose, easy layers. Lots of layers. Leather made an appearance also, in both vintage and insert fashion. This very winter appropriate fabric was easily used to complement a variety of looks on the evening’s runway. Belted pinstripe jackets atop gathered print skirts atop wide leg trou – a return to the Trelise Cooper of days gone by, where unexpected clashes ruled.
A complete group favourite from this collection was the absolutely beautiful floral digital print in a jacket, trou and blouse. This stunning pop of colour was like seeing everything good about springtime on the runway. Totally wearable, and very chic.
The backdrop change heralded the beginning of Trelise Cooper Winter 2013. Stunning hair from the team at Bettjemans and make-up from MAC was swathed in black tulle, creating a mysterious veil. Black ostrich feathers adorned models heads. From the first garment, Trelise’s theme of La Belle Epoque was evident.
A mostly gothic vibe of black on textured black was interspersed with pretty prints, shots of bright colour, shiny gold, and structural shapes. Brocade and silk, leather, sequins, and lace – this was Trelise Cooper at her most embellished. Thicker fabrics were definitely prominent in this range, and very winter-appropriate indeed. The jackets belled from the hip, the exaggerated dirndl skirts billowed from the waist, Cooper is a designer not afraid to push boundaries and champion a strong silhouette.
A stunning array of prints were worked into pretty dresses, blouses, and skirts – all beautiful and feminine. Long capes were also spotted on the runway – perhaps in an ode to winters gone by. The everpopular peter pan collar made an appearance also, in this instance as white collar on black garment. Black crochet pieces were also sent down the runway, in the form of hot pants and dresses, which provided a gorgeous alternative to heavier winter textiles. A favourite would have to be a renaissance print of the Madonna and Child seen on a cotton tee and again on a silk dress. A beautiful bevy of butterflies floated across another. It wouldn’t be Trelise without clever layering and twists of fabric and she didn’t disappoint.
CLICK HERE to view Trelise Cooper NZFW12 – Runway
– Jackie O’Fee and Lena Aseeva
Images: Norrie Montgomery, The A List
