Designer Vicki Taylor apparently described showing at NZFW as an ode to her ‘vanity’. Taylor doesn’t wholesale, so the show wasn’t about attracting buyers. It was about having her own space, her own voice with a show of her garments the way she wanted them seen. The styling was slick and pared back, no unnecessary teetering heels or extras. Showing a mix of in-season and next season garments simply illustrated a long held truth – a Taylor garment won’t date, instead it will become a wardrobe favourite for years to come.
References to brushstrokes – some more overt than others – were worked through in a palette almost entirely comprising black and cream. Screen printed cream brushstrokes on black silk duster jackets and dresses that swirled around the wearer, ribbons of silk and silk satin trailed from the collars of tops and dresses, and made up the back of skirts.
Leather appeared in a full-length greatcoat with zips to create cutaway sides. Over the elbow leather fingerless gloves in shades of chalk and black were worn with almost everything.
Divine hits of sparkle were seen in finely woven spider-webs of fabric as well as beaded tops and skirts. There was the occasional flash of colour – a bright orange, a bold yellow, these I think from Taylor’s current range. I particularly loved a typically Taylor black and white print in a stunning origami-like asymmetrical dress and one-shouldered top.
Structure and tailoring are a real strength of this designer, and fans of her brilliant cuts will not be disappointed. Many of her tunics and tops had cleverly cut out backs while her trademark jackets, vests and pants were in abundance.
This was an assured collection from a designer who has long established herself as a stylish answer to any “what am I going to wear?” question, be it for work or an occasion, and who already enjoys a legion of fans throughout the country. Tonight I am certain she picked up quite a few more.
– Jackie O’Fee
Images: Giana Patel