Graduate Show NZFW 2018

Graduate Show NZFW 2018

The Graduate show at New Zealand Fashion Week 2018. Images by Lyle Adams.

The Graduate show is a wonderful opportunity for bright young fashion design graduates to showcase their capsule collections on the catwalk. It’s exciting to see what sort of influences and inspirations are shaping our country’s youngest crop of designers at the start of their emerging careers, and what a diverse showing it was.

Susan Colton opened the show with a dreamy white broderie dress with clever hexagonal panel work and lace up detailing. A chic crop jacket and trouser suit followed as did a series of very pretty, and wearable separates of sweatshirts, jackets and jumpsuits in pastel pink and duck egg blue. Colton experimented further with the hexagonal panelling concept in a long coat to great effect.

Botched by Beth the label by young designer Matthew Baitson was up next and he offered an exuberant range of linen pieces with tie up detailing in white, sky blue, rose pink, sunshine yellow and sherbert orange, adding to the playfulness was his models and their colour coordinated lollipops. Silhouettes were relaxed, designed to float around the wearer’s body.

Dennis Raymond was the first injection of menswear we would see, and he presented a very solid, cohesive, and well crafted range. First to come down the runway was a monochromatic bomber jacket paired with ankle grazing tweed trousers. We would see more coats and jackets in denim and wool suiting worn with chinos and jeans accessorised with leather bumbags. Raymond offered stylish and modern clothing perfect for the urbanite man.

Hayley Smith’s collection referenced the grunge movement of the 1990’s as was evident in her crushed velvet pieces, and use of sombre hues. Babydoll slip dresses featured as did a sweet shirt with a ruffled heart feature on the chest. Models channelled the attitude perfectly as they walked down the catwalk in heavy combat boots and red roses in their hair.

‘Til Death Bridal is a unique occasion and bridal wear offering for the unconventional, an ivory silk chiffon dress with a dainty black all over print was presented first worn over a short black slip, followed by a black silk jumpsuit paired with a crop leather jacket, a jacquard leotard and organza skirt outfit and neutral gowns before a striking emerald low back made an appearance. Models carried dried floral bouquets and it’s refreshing to see a young designer’s take on the special occasion market with a youthful point of view.

The Remarkables channelled the dark and moody layered aesthetic New Zealand fashion can often be known for, little surprise designer Ella van Beynen is from the South Island. Long silk and cotton dresses were wrapped, layered and tied to create great textural looks.

Otis Butler creates gender neutral, androgynous and trans seasonal clothing, by way of monochromatic shirts, crop pants, vests and hoodies. A peculiar and charming touch to the styling saw models in roman sandals embellished with little fabric bows and large mitts for one’s hands.

William Roper introduced a streetwear element to the show, his opener was an oversized black padded jacket with the slogan ‘All Under Heaven’ emblazoned down one sleeve. Flowing tunics and a jumpsuit followed.

Designer Caitlin Crisp presented a well edited and executed range with an evening inspired flair. A rust trouser suit embellished with a dramatic ostrich feather trim over the shoulder was first to come down the runway, this was followed by a shirred blouse and tweed wide legged trousers. A shirred cotton dress then an extravagant ostrich feathered dress followed. Overall it was a very glamorous and confident showing by Crisp.

Soundtrack: We heard a fun and high energy soundtrack with an eclectic mix from the likes of Mac Miller, Rammstein, The Rolling Stones and Moby. Like I said-eclectic!

Beauty Notes: The Graduate show’s makeup team was lead by Claire Randall from Kristen Stewart School Of Makeup and features a natural, bronzed look with nude, bronze-toned eyeshadow, rosy cheeks, nude lips and natural, brushed up brows. The hair team was lead by Steve Cockle from ASC Salon and featured two looks— The first being an enhanced version of the model’s natural hair and the second was mid-low ponytails with crimping. (Beauty Notes by Nina Franklin).

Images by Lyle Adams.


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