Dunedin-based label Nom*D has been a favourite at New Zealand Fashion Week since the beginning and is known for helping shape the dark, intellectual fashion that NZ was, and in some ways still is, known for. Designer Margarita Robertson takes an alternative approach blending re-worked vintage, strong tailoring and graphic screen-printed motifs to create a unique look that is modern and still very wearable.
‘R.E.M’ is the title of Nom*D’s winter 2016 collection and it was initially referenced at the start of the show with video footage of eyes and eyeballs mimicking the rapid eye movement stage of sleep. What followed was a suitably moody collection full of textured knits, tartan shirting and sheer slogan pieces. Although the range was based in black, there were notable exceptions, especially the soft pink which added an unexpectedly sweet touch to the collection in pretty wool pieces.
As is Nom*D’s signature the outfits were cleverly layered to create detailed looks with references to nineties grunge in the pinafore looks and slouchy knits. Jackets were carefully tailored and also deconstructed with the opening look featuring a jacket which had been meticulously folded and bound to the dress underneath creating a unique effect. The beauty in Nom*D’s collections is partly in the details with each garment requiring a lingering look to take in all the different elements and smart composition.
The closing outfit featured a simple knee-length black dress covered in buttons printed with monochromatic doors and a small Nom*D logo, which made for an interesting statement piece that wouldn’t be out of place at a university protest. Overall it was a delightfully dark and subversive collection that will no doubt be coveted for its original charm come next winter.