Brother Design Stars look on the runway at the Graduate Show at New Zealand Fashion Week 2017.
First up on the main runway for day three at New Zealand Fashion Week was the NZFW Graduate Show, which showcased the talents and collections of outstanding graduates from New Zealand’s top fashion schools. In addition, they were joined by creations from aspiring fashion students from across the nation’s secondary schools. Needless to say, the bar was set stylishly high for the day ahead.
Opening the graduate show was Tia Feng who redefined urban chic with her series of bright and bold dresses, trousers and jumpsuits that were covered in a patchwork of orange and blue numbers and motifs as well as her incorporation of distressed denim that tasselled off a cardigan and jumpsuit. She also showcased an ultra pretty second collection that was a tulle and flower lover’s dream come true. Frilly transparent babydoll dresses over irresistibly cute bloomers formed the basis of this collection, which was adorned with patent belts and ribbons in different colours. A detail we couldn’t take our eyes off was the mini bouquets of flowers peeping out from inside the model’s boots.
Next up on the runway was Thanushi Marage’s range, an ultra avant-garde and futuristic accessory and clothing collection that took our breath away. This menswear collection showcased a series of modern black and white floor-length coats that featured everything from asymmetrical zips to statement cowl necks and drapery. The highlight of this range would be the intricate backpacks each model sported which showed incredible originality and craftsmanship.
Jordan Noah’s range gave classically feminine elements a refreshing and unique shake up. Side ties, bows, peplum and cuff frills were all given an edgy twist with the threads left loose and raw ends exposed. Grey, white and navy hues with pops of mustard and blush were the main colours featured, keeping the range fresh and flirty. A standout piece that we just can’t get enough of is a black, plunging V-neck tie front blouse, that’s complete with lust-worthy shoulder ruffles.
Featuring the – quite literally, eye-catching and quirky reoccurring motif of eyes, Olli Paroli’s collection brought both fun and femininity to the scene. Dreamy pastel colours and splashes of dark beige and brown hues in plaid, stripes and solid fabrics worked together to create a sense of reclaimed femininity. The combination of wide-legged pants and asymmetrical cropped tops were a winning addition to the collection, as was the inclusion of funky dangling cigarette earrings.
Half-way through the graduate showcase, entries from kiwi secondary school students for the Brother Design Stars were showcased, dazzling the crowds with original and creative designs. The awards began with entries in the creative headwear section, which was taken out by junior winner Chaya Conelly’s ornately gothic, Maleficient-inspired headdress and senior winner Zoe Beck’s botanically inspired headpiece. The junior garment design award went to Jayda-Lee Fairweather-Ponga’s pale pink tasselled and tulle creation. The senior winner, and supreme winner of the Brother Design award was 16 year old Jane Boyle for her colourful satin shift dress and re-worked leather and tassel jacket.
Kicking off the second half of the graduate shows was Shannen Young’s striking and avant-garde silhouettes. These designs stole the show with crisp A-line skirts, oversized power-trousers and show-stopping large 3D circular sleeves. Keeping with her clever play on shapes and visuals, her use of bold and geometric patterned fabrics amplified and drew attention the undoubtedly unique shapes in her collection. Featuring bursts of red, green, blue and crisp white in chequered, striped and wavey patterns, her designs were as vibrant as they are eye-catching.
Decadent yet delicate, structured yet fluid, Yoshino Maruyama’s collection was a refreshing mix of both softness and shapeliness. Protruding and origami-esque sleeves and cuffs, sharp collars and kimono inspired silhouettes injected the collection with a subtle strength. Slinky pearlescent silk showed off beautiful drapery, adding elegant movement to the garments. A lust-worthy detail was a mini floating pouch attached to the side of a pastel pink shirt-dress, which we couldn’t help but fall in love with.
Injecting a large dose of colour into the show was Tess Norquay’s vibrant collection that featured garments that playfully mixed together a range of bright and bold patterns and prints. Hound’s-tooth-like arrows, colourful chequers, zebra stripes, 80s inspired squiggles among other prints were layered on top of one-another creating eye-catching and unforgettable looks. A series of dangling applique pockets hanging like necklaces from cords off the outfit were definitely stand out additions to this vibrant line.
Gracing the catwalk next was Kimberly Olivia’s collection, which was full of pretty blush pink, dusty lilac and pewter tones as well as pops of orange here and there. Her exceptional use of wool and merino was epitomised by a chenille woven merino dress and a patchwork jumpsuit – both featuring all of the collection’s staple colours and seamlessly tying together all the pieces in the line.
Laura Marris took us back in time to a psychedelically-chic wonderland with her gorgeous collection, inspired by silhouettes of the 60s and 70s. Short and sharp shift dresses mixed with long, flowing and handkerchief silhouetted garments were worked with bright and deliciously feminine floral patterns and crisp, white eyelet fabric. Leaving a lasting and colourful impression on us, were both the giant felt pom-pom earrings as well a standout candy-coloured felt vest, which truly epitomized her fun play with fabric.
Next up was Letitia Powell’s pastel-hued range, which was showcased on models wearing clear frosted plastic visors. This collection showcased a lot of distressed chiffon that was layered and ruffled in mainly asymmetrical styles, giving it a uniquely feminine and edgy feel. A perfect balance of sheer and transparent chiffons were also featured in this range, adding texture to the collection and giving the solid-coloured outfits a striking yet delicate allure.
Congratulations to all the winners and graduates.
Beauty: Dewy skin, nude lips and a single bold, black cut-crease.
Soundtrack: All genres and jams from Lykke Li’s “I Follow Rivers” to Dizzee Rascal’s “Bonkers”.
Hot Items: Tia Feng’s detachable zip jackets, Thanushi Marage’s backpacks, Olli Paroli’s eye motifs and Laura Marris’s colourful woollen vest and oversized pom-pom earrings.
Images by James Yang Photography.