Finale on the runway at Sophie Joy NZFW 2019. Image by Getty Images.
After debuting at NZFW last year, Holly Lauren’s label Olli made a welcome return to open Wednesday morning’s group show. Olli projects a disarming playfulness in her clothing through her usage of ruffles and shirred construction techniques and today’s outing was as delightful as expected. A shirred candy pink cotton tunic with exaggerated sleeves paired with a pair of white utilitarian pants opened the show and was followed by a pistachio green shirred smock matched with boxy shorts modelled by a male model which was a fun gender fluid turn. A few more pistachio tonal looks appeared of shirts with high ruffle necks and voluminous sleeves layered over tunics, shorts and pants. Rounding off the capsule collection and colour palette was charming baby pink and white outfits. There was great attention to detail as seen in Olli printed ribbon on sandals, an Olli branded canvas purse, white bonnet style sunhats, and an unexpected pop of metallic silver gloves.
Leather focused label Rhemy founded by designer Mindy Madden, made their debut and showcased a polished collection, their ethos is focused on slow fashion with all pieces crafted by hand. Opening the show was a tailored white blazer belted at the waist with a wide tan belt and accessorised with a small boxy purse and this would set the tone for the rest of the looks- sleek monochromatic fitted dresses, a halter top paired with a slinky silk skirt and all accessorised with leather goods. Madden has sourced Italian Vegetable Tanned Leather and NZ Deer Nappa and used them to great extent-her leather pieces of belts, bags, brimmed hats, as well as a thin body harness wwere well thought out and well executed.
Sophie Joy had a fresh, feminine range. A pale pink babydoll slip embellished with fur at the hem opened her segment calling to mind a very Cher Horowitz inspired influence. A pale pink asymmetric bodice was paired with a flowing lurex skirt and a caramel crop jacket, a strapless pink velvet bodice spliced with a lace insert was paired with caramel, pinstripe trousers, all very fun and wearable pieces. An all over blush pink shaggy fur coat made quite a statement as did an emerald green fur jacket.
FuMoso: Home of Thompson Clothing by Gail Thompson is an Australian label and was eclectic in its offering. We saw a monochromatic floral print overcoat worn open over a bra with matching pants open her runway show, followed by lots of effective print work which was seen in a geometric printed skirt, a tapestry style coat, a polka dot flowing skirt, various floral garments and a leopard print gown worn over leopard print leggings. An interlude of all black looks provided a palate cleanser, though these looks were anything but boring, we saw a lush velvet slip worn with a brocade bolero, a black draped vest with a floral facing was paired with cigarette trousers, and a black tunic was layered over a ruched skirt. All of the looks were worn with sky high heels (the highest I’ve seen this week so far) and the models handled it like pros.
Soundtrack: Being a group show, the soundtrack was eclectic though fun and upbeat, we head hits from Jazz Liberatorz, Little Dragon, Lana Del Ray and Amy Winehouse.
Beauty Notes: The group show hair was lead by Zoe Clark and the L’Oreal team and consisted of two looks. For Olli and Sophie Joy the look was a braided knot with added width to the hair by using a braided loop style. The hair was naturally parted and sat elegantly at the nape of the neck. For Rhemy and Fumoso the hair was a French chić knotted bun with roundness at the crown and had a whimsical feel.
The makeup for this group show was lead by Bailey Grant and Kristin Stewart from Kristin Stewart School of Makeup. This show had two looks. The first look was clean, fresh, natural-looking skin with added freckles and a copper eye finished with a nude lip. The second look was similar but with a fluid line above the top lid and a classic red lip. Beauty Notes by Nina Franklin.
Hot Item: Olli’s frilled everything and hats, Rhemy’s ‘R’ embossed leather purse, Sophie Joy’s emerald green velvet slip and Fumoso’s leopard print wrap gown.
Images by Getty Images.