Models on the runway at the finale of Campbell Luke NZFW 2019. Image by Getty Images.
New Zealand Fashion Week 2019 saw Taranaki-based designer Bobby Campbell Luke return to the event to showcase his eponymous label Campbell Luke in a much-anticipated solo show. It was at once nostalgic, ethereal, and incredibly beautiful. Without a doubt, it promises to set the bar incredibly high for the designer’s future collections and career.
With the lights dimmed and the room rife with anticipation, a video began illuminating the runway walls with a moving image of a woman (Campbell Luke’s own niece) gently hand washing a linen piece in a stone-ridden stream. It followed her as she tied her pinafore – an emblem that would later be present in the runway collection — and walked through the surroundings of the designer’s local marae in Taranaki.
Welcoming the models to the catwalk, and sending a wave of goosebumps across the audience was a choir, who performed a powhiri welcome call. They proceeded to rouse the room with a series of Māori songs, which made for an energetic and mood-setting soundtrack during the entirety of the show.
One by one, models emerged onto the runway. With the energy in the room still dialled up high, there were impressed gasps and whispers from the audience as each creation in this beautiful linen-based line emerged.
From pure white, creams to light greys, through to the additions of a touch of sage and even a pale peach, the colour palette in the collection was simple and neutral, which allowed the craftsmanship and beautiful linen fabrics of each piece to take centre stage.
Elements reminiscent of colonial wardrobes were dotted throughout the collection, in the forms of modern prairie dresses, high necklines, loose-fitting gathered waists and the layering pinafores over many of the garments. Each of the garments were loosely tailored, which created beautiful movements as the models walked the runway. The inclusion of fabric ties around the neck, sleeves and even the neck punctuated the looks with a dash of shape, while still remaining true to the loose-fitting and at times flowing designs.
Alongside the largely solid colour palette, the collection saw a beautifully detailed vintage floral print worked into a number of tops and dresses, in both a muted tone as well as a gently-faded version. The motif of flora and fauna was also continued into a casual sweatshirt, which featured an outline print of a single leaf. Knitwear also made a guest appearance too – with a standout piece being a thickly jersey-knitted cardigan complete with a hood.
Hats, clutches and small handbags made from woven flax adorned many of the outfits, delicately nodding to the designer’s Māori heritage and inspirations.
The last few looks saw the introduction of a matte, sheer organza worked into two knee-length prairie dresses, which adding a touch of formal flair to these looks and rounded off the showcase whimsically.
As the show came to a close, a model lay a woven mat from Campbell Luke’s own marae across the catwalk. A number of models nestled together on the mat, and the show ended on an energetic (and even tear-jerking) note with a spontaneous, rousing haka erupting from proud members of the crowd.
Must have: Sheer, matte organza mid-length prairie dress, and anything in the floral print.
Soundtrack: A live school choir performing a range of powerful waiatas.
Beauty Notes: The hair look for Campbell Luke was lead by Zoe Clark and the team at L’Oreal. There were two looks for this show, the first was a classic “milkmaid” braid, which has the models sporting two side braids which are pulled up onto the top of the head to meet in the middle. The second look had the models with very textured hair. The look was done by braiding the hair into small sections then running the straighteners over the hair, before undoing the braids to create a fast, textured look.
The makeup look was lead by Kristen Stewart and her team at Kristin Stewart School of Makeup. This was probably the most natural look of the week. This look had very minimal makeup, with very light touching up. The designer wanted the models natural skin and freckles to shine through for a “daytime cuteness” vibe. Beauty Notes by Nina Franklin.
Images by Getty Images.