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Confessions of a makeup artist

Getting LIPPY…
Now now ladies hold your tongues… Getting lippy isn't about a gossip session with a cheeky glass of bubbles; it's about making sure the lippy stays on your lips and not all over the rim of the glass!

Before you head to the shops and start swiping those credit cards you need to know a few of the basics…

Your lippy should work with your skin and hair colour, and most importantly, your mood. Once you know the colours that work then you can then match up your clothing, shoes or handbag.
Don't go picking that amazing red just because it’s on sale or because you ‘loveee’ the colour! (we have all been guilty at some stage or another!)
Reason it out first and make sure that it is a colour that will suit you and not go into the bottom of the bottom bathroom draw! Your lips hold your expressions; they attract the eyes of others and show off your dazzling smile.

Finding your colour…

For fair skin
Look for true pinks or nudes in a slightly apricot shade and dark berry colours. Browns will wash you out so steer clear, unless you have freckles in which case you can wear browns with pink and bronze tones – they will look pretty and fresh.

For medium complexions
Medium complexions can handle more depth so go for a stronger rose shade instead of pink. Nude colours can verge on peach and when you go deep, consider a reddish burgundy instead of a pure red.

For olive skin
The tones for olive skin must have a little brown in them – anywhere from bronze to raisin. Steer clear of candy pinks (unless you are a stripper) or any formula with white or silver (they make the skin look sallow).

Dark skin
Dark skin can go in two directions, either towards browns or towards purples. Think caramel and walnut during the day and plum or wine for the evening.

Seductively RED…

Every woman should have one good RED LIPPY
The trick to finding the perfect red is in the under tones, not the colour. Fire engine red look stunning on ladies with a warm complexion (I.e olive skin); whilst those with a cooler skin colour (fair or flushed tones) should stick to cherry red. Those with dark skin can have their pick of any of the crimsons.
Even redheads can wear red lippy, think Julianne Moore.

In the nude

Nude lipstick means exactly that. Look for a lippy that has no colour yet is a full colour. Confused? Find a model who looks as though she is not wearing lippy. Now look closer. She will have more product on her lips that the ladies with cheery red in most cases. Looking natural can often be more work than full glam make-up.
Searching for a nude that suits can be like finding a needle in a haystack, it may be difficult but there is one there for you.
First tip – it should never be lighter than your skin. Avoid shades with white undertones and always opt for a golden or pink-tinged hue. Skip the liner for a more translucent cover and always finish with a spot of gloss.
It really is the sexiest, sultry look. Paired with striking dramatic eye makeup, you can't lose!

Line up…

As a rule I generally stay away from liners. If you have a great lippy there should be no need for a liner. However, if you cannot resist the urge:

Never line your lips with a darker lip-liner. While the look in the 80's alone was all about the liner, remember, that was the 80's and we are now in the new millennium. Change with the ages, girls!
If you absolutely must, use a lip-liner one shade lighter than your lipstick (a nude liner can also work with any colour over top.)

Glossing it up…

Every woman should have at least two of these lying around in her handbag. I think there are at least eight in mine. They're not only the most inexpensive make-up item you can purchase but the most necessary.

When looking for a new gloss, remember to look for words like lip lacquer, glass or diamond – they will have more colour than most and tend to stick longer than glosses with words like juicy and slick. While they may feel thicker and kind of like wearing honey on your lips; stick with it. You'll get used to the feeling and you’ll thank me when you have stopped going through so many glosses in a month!
If you want a little more than gloss, use a pencil, (warm the pencil between your fingers to give it a more waxy substance) and fill in the lips lightly. This will also hold the gloss longer.
For fuller lips, dot lip gloss right in the centre of the lower lip.

Tips and Tricks…

To stop lippy sliding on to your teeth, a good old fashioned tip is to stick a finger in your mouth and drag it out. This will remove lippy that's inside your lips.
Exfoliate your lips. Lippy always looks better on a smooth surface. Use a tooth brush or for the more delicate, a face towel.
Always blot your lipstick with a tissue then re-apply another coat. Powder the first layer for an even better result.
For bleeding lips (before you apply you're lippy!) use a q-tip dipped in loose powder and press it on the skin around and on the edges of your lips, before applying your lippy.
Remember … Colour and texture, tones and finishes. Each product is independently formulated to shade, define, stylise and add effects to the lips. Now, start swiping those credit cards!

Ashlee xx