Afterpay Australian Fashion Week has officially kicked off for 2023. The debut day set the bar high with collections that traversed occasions, aesthetics, and style languages.
The Sydney destination of Carriageworks, the tall utilitarian building that houses AAFW, is swarming with a smorgasbord of styles and delivering everything from minimalism to maximalism.
There’s the lacey, spiral-sash and hemmed dresses representing the Y2K trend. The reign of understated neutrals continues, with light trench coats and oversized boxy blazers making regular appearances. There’s also a healthy, unexpected splash of looks that can only be described as Palm Springs Seventies Psychedelic Chic: pistachio to lip-smacking lime greens and pops of pink making their way into lengthy, sculptural garments complete with puffed hems and prairie detailings.
BONDI BORN
Resort wear label BONDI BORN’s harbourside location, a former waterside coal loader wharf, echoed the brand’s ethos of all things relaxed yet impossibly structured.
Neutrals or full-throttle colour may be the polar tonal norms for resort wear, however, BONDI BORN fused the two camps meticulously. We saw beige, black, creams, terracotta, and oh-so-crisp white staples punctuate candy-coloured iterations of their relaxed yet structured styles. The rainbow palette delivered pinks, lime greens, and the undisputable winning colourway: bright cobalt blues.
The daywear garments were strong and structured, many of them seeing a long sash, subtle drawstring, or a gathered back detail adding a touch of movement. That movement carried over to the fabrics where buttery fabrics billowed in dresses and skirts, with crisp linens and cottons moving effortlessly and almost hypnotically on the models.
Swimwear — BONDI BORN’s stalwart trademark — made its first appearance as a simple yet impossibly striking, square-necked one-piece. We were also treated to iterations of colour-blocking cream with black, complete with a midriff cutout. Not to be missed were BONDI BORN’s scuba bags: playfully included in micro and maxi sizes, with the polar sizes even doubling up to complete some outfits.
Yousef Akbar
We next entered into opulent territory, courtesy of eponymous eveningwear label Yousef Akbar’s ‘Rebirth. Transformation. Shift’. Resort 2024 collection.
It was a show that truly indulged the senses where flouncing beads feathered from the body and choruses of sequins chimed with each step. This was mirrored by a soundtrack heroing the sound of water droplets, where moments of negative space sound let the embellishments do the singing. To say it was hypnotic is truly an understatement.
Contrast was celebrated in Yousef Akbar’s silhouettes. They were slender, at times sculptural, and effortlessly nudged classical elements to new lengths. We saw high scoop-necked dresses encase the models, tightly and tastefully. Long sleeves streamlined into gloves, tights into pointed stilettos, all belted by serpentine cross-body drapery. Billowing taffeta skirts and ruched tulle took over from the stone-studded and stretch fabrics that opened the collection. Not a drape out of place, Yousef Akbar showed a refreshing mastery of tailoring rarely found this side of the equator.
The styling and beauty showed a similar dedication to detail. Courtesy of Make Up For Ever, droplets of crystals gently dotted decolletages, faces, and even scalps of the models, later entering high-octane glamour with full-faced embellishments in colours matched to the dresses they accompanied. As for the hair, we saw a poetic nod to the collection’s inspiration — the innate fire of women who have found freedom: updos reminiscent of birds in flight, courtesy of a collaboration with ghd.
Youkhana
A fashion week debut calls for a one-of-a-kind impression. Youkhana’s #AAFW debut, aptly titled ‘One Of,’ certainly delivered on that with an energetic, raw collection that strongly introduced the label’s emphasis on personal expression.
The collection is described as “less cheeky and more mature, less modern and more classic, less fluid and more structured than his previous work.” This smoothly translated to the label’s signature hand-stitched circular braids reimagine wide-brimmed and top hats, evening dress silhouettes, bralettes, and even full-length pants. Each look was as unique in its colourway as it was in shape, with a pistachio-toned pointed swim cap paired with a futuristic hoop-hemmed mini dress, as well as a red pant and top with cascading shoulders catching our eyes.
It’s safe to say that no stone was left unturned and untouched by Nathaniel Youkhanas’ imaginative use of braid: everything from arm warmers, footwear, neck pieces, and a myraid hats proves his playful prowess in bringing these new takes to life. It’s clear that there’s something for everyone to covet, echoing the label’s emphasis on self-expression and unity.
And uniting it was, with many of the crowd joining to commemorate the designer to a standing ovulation as the cast — many of them the designer’s personal friends and collaborators — swooped around for the finale.
Images by Getty Images