Design by 2020 iD International Emerging Designer Awards winner Stina Randestad from The Swedish School of Textiles in Borås, Sweden.
The 2020 iD International Emerging Design Awards winners have been announced at an intimate event at Otago Polytechnic in Dunedin tonight. It’s the first time in the 16 year history of the iD International Emerging Design Awards that the winners were named at a show they were unable to attend due to the current global situation. Instead of the usual show where each finalist’s garments are presented to a live audience this year a film showcasing the 32 finalists was premiered at a much smaller event before the winners were announced. The film provided a very intimate look at the finalists from 14 countries, as viewers got to see them explain their designs, their inspiration and see them in their own environment.
Stina Randestad from The Swedish School of Textiles in Borås, Sweden was announced as the winner of the iD International Emerging Designer Awards 2020 for her collection called ‘Hybrids’ which swapped the design order to put fabric first. Stina’s design process began with the question ‘what happens when different materials are put together?’ Through trial and error she discovered two fabric manipulation techniques that she continued working with; sewing stretchy and thick materials and cutting and layering materials. These new materials generated movement and expression when they were draped upon many bodies and from this exercise Stina was able to decide how the fabrics would work best in garments, switching the usual process. Judges comments about her collection described it as an ‘Amazing use of fabrics and the manipulation into garments, unexpected combinations created unexpected results.’
Shrinvanti Roymoulik from RMIT University in Melbourne, Australia was announced as the second place winner for her collection called ‘Flowing Rhythm’. Srinvanti’s collection stems from research around art therapy which explored the principles of rhythm and repetition. She then considered how rhythm and repetition manifest in textile and garment making. Textile art is formed through a process that generates responses in a body, with repetition eventually creating flow in design, which in turn becomes a reflective state of existence. Judges comments about her collection described it as ‘Impressive sustainable sourcing of waste denim. Love the colours. Wearable yet fashion-forward.’
Marlena Czak from Strzemiński Academy of Fine Arts in Łódź, Poland claimed third place for her collection called ‘Why me, why me’. Marlena’s intention was to use design to contrast sacred and profane. Therefore ‘Why me, why me‘ contains unique fabrics, as well as ready-to-wear patterns. Needle felting with fabric cuttings is the designer’s own invention. This technique allowed her to make unique, double-faced fabrics. The left side is full of small after-production cuttings which she puts on the fabric and then pricks with a needle. The right side has fluffy fibres-embroidery. The technique gives a mix of different fibres and colours creating new visual effects. All this creates a vibrant effect which seems to be a never-ending spiritual experience. It took about 3000 hours to prepare fabrics for the collection. Judges comments about Marlena’s collection described it as ‘Loved the creation of the fabric and the use of both sides. Outstanding collection.’
Design by 2020 iD International Emerging Designer Awards second place winner Shrinvanti Roymoulik from RMIT University in Melbourne, Australia.
Earlier in the year the organisers of the event decided that it would be best to take the show online due to global travel restrictions. That meant the judging was undertaken on video by an international panel of 16 jurors from five countries. The panel led by head judge Tanya Carlson of successful womenswear label Carlson (New Zealand) included:
• Adrien Yakimov Roberts, International Director at Grad Fashion Week in London (UK)
• Dame Denise L’Estrange-Corbet, WORLD (New Zealand)
• Donna Tulloch, Mild Red (New Zealand)
• Doris de Pont, New Zealand Fashion Museum (New Zealand)
• Doris Raymond, The Way We Wore (USA)
• Fiona Ralph, sustainability journalist and former iD International Emerging Designer Awards finalist (New Zealand)
• Lutz Huelle, LUTZ (France)
• Margarita Robertson, NOM*d (New Zealand)
• Patty Huntington, fashion journalist ABC Australia and WWD (Australia)
• Sara Maino, New Talents Editor of Vogue Italia (Italy)
• Sara Munro, Company of Strangers (New Zealand)
• Stefan Siegel, Director Not Just a Label (USA)
• Stephen Jones, Stephen Jones Millinery (UK)
• Stiofán Sopelza, Mittelmoda Fashion Awards Project Manager Mittelmoda (Italy)
• Wynn Crawshaw, Wynn Hamlyn (New Zealand)
The finalists designs were submitted late last year before the global Covid-19 pandemic, but the finalists’ design choices reflected their observations on challenges faced by the world. “It was wonderful to see young people thinking creatively of ways to change global habits. Collectively they showed outstanding use of recycled fabric, clever upcycling and embraced new technologies. There was also an overall trend to tell their own story through references to their ethnicity and culture which was explored with beautiful, sensitive design,” says Tanya Carlson.
iD Dunedin Fashion Inc. co-chair Dr Margo Barton said judging and hosting the show online provided an unparalleled opportunity to make the event truly global and draw upon some of the world’s most experienced fashion judges. While iD Dunedin Fashion Inc. co-chair Sally Peart added that the online video format enabled ID Fashion to extend the reach of this iconic event from Dunedin to an international audience. She said early indications were that the Awards’ reach would be significantly more international and she was aware of finalists in many countries watching the winners video announcement via Facebook Live.
Design by 2020 iD International Emerging Designer Awards third place winner Marlena Czak from Strzemiński Academy of Fine Arts in Łódź, Poland.
While the first, second and third place winners have been announced there is still the People’s Choice winner to be decided. Fashion fans from across the world are being invited to vote for their favourite designer online from Saturday 8 until Sunday 30 August. On Monday 31 August the Otago Polytechnic People’s Choice Awards winners will be named.
Given it’s still unknown how the next year will unfold with current situation and the enthusiasm for developing the first online iD International Emerging Designer Awards, the iD Dunedin Board Inc has committed to hosting the 2021 iD International Emerging Designer Awards online again. It will also feature a live event and will be timed to coincide with Otago Museum’s 2021 exhibition Fashion Fwd >> Disruption through Design, which starts at the end of March 2021. The board has decided to postpone plans to hold the iD Established Dunedin Designer Show pencilled in for the Dunedin Railway Station February 2021, and are continuing to review opportunities.
Congratulations to all the winners and finalists of the 2020 iD International Emerging Design Awards.